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PAPER MANUFACTURER EXPLORERS THE WEST
BY JACKIE GOLD SPECIAL TO THE CRAG & CANYON

Robert L. Barrett, a Chicago paper manufacturer and businessman, developed a serious interest in mountaineering while in Europe .

When Barrett visited the Canadian Rockies in 1893, he became entranced with their beauty and height. On his initial visit, Barrett took a three-week trip with Laughlan A. Hamilton of the CPR. He later followed that up by following old Indian trails over Simpson Pass to the Simpson River , accompanied by guide Tom Wilson, and cook George Fear.

After arriving at the Simpson River , they struggled on, reaching the Ferro Pass , and continuing into the valley of the Mitchell River before becoming the first to visit the base of Mount Assiniboine .

Barrett wrote to Tom Wilson some years later after visiting the Himalayas that, “K2 at 28,000 feet didn't look as high and imposing and terrible as Assiniboine when you and I finally won through to where we could get a look at him.”

Two years later, in 1895 Barrett returned to the area with Walter Wilcox, J.F. Porter and their guide Bill Peyto, who had arrived in the Rockies in 1886, and worked for the CPR, homesteaded, and prospected before entering the outfitting business with Tom Wilson.

After the group reached the base of the mountain, they made the decision to circumnavigate the mountain to see the southern slopes. The trip was easier thought of then done however, as it became a 46 hour struggle through downed timber which was on occasion ten feet off the ground. The forest around them was burnt as well, which turned the group, “black as coal heavers,” according to Wilcox. After making it up a 500-foot slope, that “appeared nearly vertical,” the group finished the 51-mile trip around the base of the mountain.

Barrett returned home only to return to the Rockies in 1896, a year later, to join Wilcox, Tim Lusk, and Fred Stephens on a trip to the north of Lake Louise . There they began their search for Mount Brown and Mount Hooker , which were the target for many mountaineers of the day. Barrett wanted to head into the area after Tom Wilson sent him some photographs of the area. Barrett said that the photographs, “It knocked me flat. I've got to go!”

The party decided to travel north over Bow Pass, which Wilcox described in his book The Canadian Rockies as, "Open, treeless moors, abounding in irregular mounds and depressions, covered with a scant growth of grass, stunted willows, and a dwarfed underbrush, extended in a gradually rising valley to a pass about three miles north-west of the lake (Bow Lake). The view on the other side of the pass is one of the most inspiring in the mountains.”

They became the first to reach Sunwapta Pass , striving to complete their sixty-day expedition to find a pass to reach the Athabasca River .

Barrett was so impressed by the “tremendous grandeur of mountain scenery,” the group was exploring that he tried to climb, “a beautiful, glacier-hung peak,” which it was decided by others, must have been Mount Athabasca .

Though the Little Ice Age had passed by the time the group had reached Sunwapta Pass , the Athabasca Glacier still stretched out to where the Icefields Parkway exists today.

In order to see if the group would be able to continue over the pass to their goal, Fred Stephens made his way between the toe of the Athabasca Glacier and what would become known as Mount Wilcox . Stephens determined that though the route appeared to be the most promising on first glance, it was actually blocked by a canyon.

The party decided to proceed over a high grassy pass to the east of Mount Wilcox , descending into Sunwapta Valley beyond Tangle Falls and into the steep canyon. This pass was later named in honour of Walter Wilcox too.

Walter Wilcox wrote that during the same trip he and Robert L. Barrett, "... set out to climb the peak north of the lake ( Fortress Mountain ) in order to discover the location of the highest mountains.”

“We had a long and tiresome walk, through a heavy forest, and discovered a very old trail, so much blocked, however, by fallen trees as to be almost useless. After reaching a point about forty-five hundred feet above the valley, the weather became threatening, and I set up my camera at once and took a set of views around the horizon.

“The clouds formed constantly a few yards above my head, but I got the distant mountains, though the smoke and gloom made the results very poor. Barrett continued up the mountain, though the climb involved some rather perilous work among rotten limestone cliffs.

“He reached the summit, which is about ninety-six hundred feet high, where the clouds shut out everything from view."

Walter Wilcox wrote a letter to J.M. Thorington saying that, "Barrett . . . was very efficient in all that concerned camp life and a marvel for taking punishment on the trail. For instance, on our trip north to Fortress Lake he would join up with Fred Stephens after seven or eight hours on the trail and explore the new region ahead for half a dozen miles and return to camp with full knowledge of every ford and burnt timber patch in the distance. This of course was a killing proposition for any normal man but it saved us a lot of time the next day.

"While on the Wilcox Pass , several days were spent trying to locate some trail or route off the pass and into the Athabasca . Barrett disappeared and did not turn up for three days without so much as saying goodbye and then walked casually into camp one night about eleven pm. So far as I understand it, he got lost in burnt timber down the Brazeau."

Though Barrett proved his prowess in the field of mountaineering, and was among those in the first group to travel around the Sunwapta Pass and Athabasca area, no mountain, pass, valley or river was named after him like his co-explorers. For him, the thrill of the trips themselves would have to be enough.

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BUILDING A DREAM IN THE ROCKIES
AT BANFF
RAILWAY LEGACY REMEMBERED
BILL PEYTO: A RARE BREED IN BANFF
LIFE AS PAT BREWSTER RECALLED IT
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HECTOR GAVE NAMES TO OUR LANDMARKS
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SCHAFFER EMBRACED LIFE OF ADVENTURE IN CANADIAN ROCKIES

PAPER MANUFACTURER EXPLORERS THE WEST

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